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The Imperial Road of Alemagna


On the historical 'Alemagna imperial road' between Valdidentro and Bavaria a fortress from 1391 stood at 1930 meters with a wall interrupted at a pass. Today, only the Fraele Towers, unique in the province, remain as bearing witness to the defensive structure. The square-plan towers, with thick walls and without ground-level access doors, have an entrance at the top for the safety of the keepers, giving the pass its name 'of Stairs'.

The ancient Imperial Road of Alemagna once represented, together with the 'Umbrail Main Road', the only road linking the Upper Valtellina and the countries beyond the Alps. It was a simple alpine mule track that climbed through the Fraele Valley and reached Val Monastero, in Swiss territory, passing through Val Mora.

Also known as the 'wine and salt road', it was vital for the municipalities of Bormio, Valdidentro, Valfurva, Valdisotto, and Livigno. Despite the transport challenges of a bygone era, these municipalities obtained privileges and franchises from their sovereigns and feudal lords.

Two main routes, 'royal roads', connected Bormio to the Tyrol: the Fraele and Umbrail routes. The former was safe in winter, the latter faster and preferred by travelers on horseback.

The most traded goods were wine and salt. Wine was bought in Valtellina and then resold in the transalpine regions for a considerable profit. Salt, on the other hand, was bought from the Tyrol, in the salt pans that were located near the town of Hall, not far from Innsbruck, and sold in Lombardy.

Both wine and salt were transported by pack animals, usually about ten quadrupeds, and were loaded with two barrels on either side of the pack and a third, smaller barrel on the back. A 'soma', which was the unit of measurement for any kind of goods transported by an animal, was about 126 liters. In winter, on the other hand, horse-drawn sleighs were used to negotiate the difficulties of snow and ice. Workmen called 'rotters' worked to keep the roads free of snow and ice.

The journey to Hala for the salt took fifteen to eighteen days, via Umbrail or Fraele, Santa Maria in Val Monastero, Taufers, the Reschen Pass, Nauders, Landeck, Innsbruck, and finally Hala. It was a truly adventurous journey and not without dangers: the Fraele road was not only traveled by traders but, according to documentation, also by pilgrims on their way to Rome. Unfortunately, whoever traveled on such a road had to take into account that they might run into brigands or soldiers who had little respect for people and goods.

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